Pulses, beats… The heart-shaped diamond

12 February 2017

In addition to the classic brilliant cut, or round cut, there are many other types of cuts called “fantasy cut” diamonds. As St Valentine’s day approaches, let’s take a look at the most-desired cut for this special day: the heart-cut diamond.

This type of cut comes from the brilliant cut and features 59 facets and maximum light return.

The parameters to evaluate the shape are rather subjective, and the challenge for cutters has always been to achieve maximum brilliance and optimum proportions from the rough diamond.

In most cases, the future shape of the gemstone is determined by the rough diamond, but in other cases this depends on the inclusions or the need to preserve as much weight as possible, i.e. the final carat weight.

It is believed that this cut originated in India.

The most famous heart-cut diamond is the CENTENARY diamond, discovered in 1986 in the Premier Mine of South Africa owned by the De Beers Company. The original rough was 599 carats (equal to 120g). De Beers assigned the job of cutting the diamond to one of the most accomplished cutters in the world, the Belgium Gabi Tolkowsky. He decided to perform the initial efforts by hand instead of laser so as not to heat the diamond, which could have damaged the internal structure. The heart shape was chosen for the final gem, as he thought it was particularly suitable to adorn the turban of a Sultan or Maharaja. The cut was completed in 1991, and the diamond was called the Centenary because it was found during the Centennial Celebration of the De Beers mines.

This beautiful heart-cut diamond of 273.85 carats was classified by the Gemmological Institute of America as grade D colour, which is the highest grade of colourless diamond, internally and externally flawless.

The Centenary was displayed in the Tower of London for several years, but was later sold. The De Beers Company declines to reveal the name of the buyer in accordance with its strict anonymity policy.

Therefore, somewhere in the world, unknown to us, someone is enjoying the rare beauty of this perfect heart-cut diamond.